San Pantalon
Open: Mon-Sat: 10-12/13-15.
Map
Map
The church of San Pantalon was built between 1668 and 1686 and comprises a nave with three chapels on either side. The rather plain appearance of the exterior, with its unfinished façade, does not prepare the visitor for the magnificent visual feast which lies inside.
Executed between 1680 and 1704, Gian Antonio Fumiani's (1645-1710) splendid painting on the ceiling of the nave depicts the Martyrdom and Glory of Saint Pantalon. Fumiani's painting is claimed to be the largest painting on canvas in the world. In truth the painting is made up of forty separate canvases carefully stitched together. The story is often pedalled that the painter fell from the scaffolding to his death, while working on the painting. In reality, Fumiani died a full six years after completing the painting! He is, however, supposed to be buried in the church, but the location of his grave is unknown. The Victorian art critic, John Ruskin, was completely disdainful of Fumiani's efforts: 'Roof puffed up and broken through, as it were, with breath of the fiend from below, instead of pierced by heaven's light from above; the rags and ruins of Venetian skill, honour, and worship, exploded all together sky-high. Miracles of frantic mistake, of flaunting and thunderous hypocrisy,—universal lie, shouted through speaking-trumpets.' Not to be missed: Cappella di Sacro Chiodo. |