San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
Open: 10-12/15-17.30. Hols: 9-12.
Map
Map
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli lies at the western end of the city, a district traditionally inhabited by sailors and fishermen. The inhabitants of the area are, to this day, known as Nicolotti after their parish church. The church still possesses a small porch, once a common feature of most medieval churches, which afforded protection for the beggars of the area. This space was shared by poor nuns, the so-called pinzochere, who chose to live from hand to mouth.
A church was first built on this site in the seventh century. The church was rebuilt in the 12th century; part survives in the nave, aisles and apse. Further work took place in the 14th century when the nave capitals were replaced (three are dated: 1361, 1364 and 1366). Towards the end of the 16th century the upper nave walls were clad with wooden panelling (with paintings) and gilded and polychrome wooden statues of the twelve apostles were placed above the columns. A flat wooden ceiling was also added as well as a rood screen (with statues of Christ flanked by Mary and Saint John the Evangelist). In the 1760s the church was given a new and attractive stone façade on its north side. On the high altar stands a wooden statue of Saint Nicholas, which dates back to the 15th century. Nicholas, who is the patron saint of sailors, raises his right hand in blessing. The three balls in his lap remind us of the legend of the three poor girls without dowries. One night the saint left each girl a golden ball, which enabled them to get married. A column in front of the church, which bears the Leone Marciana, reflects the precise social position of the local inhabitants. The latter would choose a single leader, a fisherman from their own ranks, who would be known as the 'Doge of the Nicolotti'. Like the Doge of the Republic, he wore a red robe when on official duties and had his own quarters in the Doge's Palace. San Nicolò dei Mendicoli was the location for the 'restoration' scenes in Nicholas Roeg's film Don't Look Now (1973). |